Coco Chanel

Birth : 1883-08-19, Saumur, Pays de la Loire

Death : 1971-01-10

History

Gabriel Bonheur Chanel (Coco) was born in 1883. When her mother died Coco was only twelve years old.  Her father abandons her and her siblings in the largest orphanage of the region, a convent in Aubazine. She started working in Moulins as a shop girl with a local milliner and the age of twenty-five , she met and started living with her first love, Ettiene Balsan. Coco starts decorating simple straw and felt hats and created beautiful and unusual designs, captivating the attention and admiration of the women that attended the horse races. Soon after, they began to ask her to custom-design hats that would complement their afternoon outfits. Between 1912 and 1914 Coco opens a millinery store “Chanel Modes", in Paris and another in Deauville, where she makes and sells hats, simple loose blouses and chemises. She has the financial backing of “Boy” Capel, her lover  after  Balsan, who endorsed her plans and encouraged her ideas. In 1916, Coco begins to make garments from jersey, a fabric previously used only for underwear. Chanel made and sold hats, simple loose blouses, and chemises.  Her clothes were designed to be worn without corsets and were constructed with fewer linings to make them lighter and less rigid.  In 1918, Chanel was producing cardigans and twinsets.  She adapted men’s sweaters and showed them worn over plain, straight skirts.  In 1920, Chanel introduced wide-legged trousers for women, based on sailor's bell bottoms, which she called "yachting pants."  She also popularized the "little black dress," during this time.  Chanel wore her designs which she adapted from traditional menswear:  belted raincoats, plain opened-neck shirts, blazers, cardigans, trousers and soft berets.  Her collarless cardigan-jackets were braid-trimmed, accessorized with patch pockets, and worn with knee-length tweed skirts.  Her simple chemise dresses had round straight or bateau necklines, hung loosely to the mid or lower calf and were worn with waist or hip-length belts.  Her other innovations of this period included oversize flat black bows, gilt buttons on blazers, sling-back sandals and handbags with gilt chains.  She introduced costume jewelry,  and incorporated it in her overall tweed suit look worn with rows of artificial pearlsor gilt chains. During the 1930s she commissioned Fulco Di Verdura to design elaborate costume jewelry using fake and semi-precious stones in ostentatious settings. Coco also launched her perfume Chanel No. 5 in the 1920s. Chanel’s signature style culminated around 1923 in what commentators called the “garconne look," which celebrated the flat-chested, slender, wearing loose, comfortable clothes and sporting a short, boyish haircut figure.  In 1929, Coco opened a boutique in her Paris salon to sell accessories, such as bags, belts, scarves and jewelry.  She closed her salon in 1939, at the outbreak of World War II. In 1954, at the age of seventy-one, she made her comeback, reopening her house after fifteen years, and introducing a collection which featured the neat suits that had been her hallmark before the war. She continued her reign over couture from 1954 to 1971, when she died at the age of eighty-eight. Since 1983, Karl Lagerfeld has been design director of the House of Chanel.

Movies

Bolshoi Ballet: Gabrielle Chanel
Costume Design
The one act performance by choreographer Yuri Possokhov pays homage to the celebrated founder of the fashion house that bears her name and features a stunning display of Chanel costumes specially created for the ballet. Created specifically for Zakharova, the ballet "Gabrielle Chanel" recounts the most memorable moments of the work and life of the French fashion designer, who died in 1971 aged 87.
Coco Chanel's battles
Herself
A TV documentary that recounts the many "battles" Coco Chanel overcame to become the great businesswoman and legend she is considered today.
Anna Karina, Remember
Herself (archive footage) (uncredited)
Major actress of the New Wave, Anna Karina is bound to the great renewal of cinema in the 1960s. Her companion in life, Dennis Berry revisits the story of her memories with Jean-Luc Godard and the great directors she knew, her memorable meeting with Serge Gainsbourg, and also, more recently, her career as a singer. With a gaze halfway between mischief and severity, the New Wave's Danish muse embodied a new feminity – deeply linked with women's liberation.
Chanel Chanel
Chanel--more than just one of the world's most successful fashion labels, also the name of a woman who led a fascinating life. This Paris designer banished the corset from women's fashion, created the bouclé suit and the famous 'little black dress,' and made costume jewelery socially acceptable. Her elegant but comfortable clothing stressed the new-won freedoms of 1920s women; her perfume made ladies irresistible. Chanel's head designer Karl Lagerfeld explains why her simple style is still today an inspiration. Unique shots and designs from the archives reveal Coco Chanel's passion both for fashion and for life.
Sentimental Education
Costume Design
Frédéric, a shy small-town man, falls in love with Anne, a middle class woman married to Didier, who cheats on her with top model Barbara. Catherine, a very determined woman, is secretly in love with Frédéric and in order to keep him away from Anne, pushes him into Barbara's arms.
The Rules of the Game
Costume Design
A weekend at a marquis’ country château lays bare some ugly truths about a group of haut bourgeois acquaintances.
Port of Shadows
Costume Design
Down a foggy, desolate road to the port city of Le Havre travels Jean, an army deserter looking for another chance to make good on life. Fate, however, has a different plan for him, as acts of both revenge and kindness render him front-page news.
First a Girl
Costume Design
First a Girl is a 1935 British comedy film directed by Victor Saville and starring Jessie Matthews. First a Girl was adapted from the 1933 German film Viktor und Viktoria written and directed by Reinhold Schünzel.
The Greeks Had a Word for Them
Costume Design
A trio of money-hungry women rent a luxurious penthouse, spending their dough on drink and debonair clothing, backbiting and catfighting as they steal each other's boyfriends.
The Blood of a Poet
Costume Design
Told in four episodes, an unnamed artist is transported through a mirror into another dimension, where he travels through various bizarre scenarios. This film is the first part of Cocteau's Orphic Trilogy, which consists of The Blood of a Poet (1930), Orpheus (1950) and Testament of Orpheus (1960).
Tonight or Never
Costume Designer
A young opera singer finds her career stalled because of her cold and passionless performances, until she finds romance with a handsome admirer.